Just Back From Portofino: "I Feel Splendido"
An inside look at the grand reopening soirée of a grand dame
If your Instagram feed looks anything like ours has in recent weeks, the splashy, “I Feel Splendido” campaign has entered your scroll at least once. When a legacy property perched on the Ligurian Coast quietly reemerges from a top-to-bottom restoration and manages to impress even the most seasoned travelers? That’s when you know the substance runs deeper than the splash.
Freshly returned alongside some of the travel industry’s most discerning editors, journalists, travel influencers, and agency principals for the grand reopening of Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino, Erina Pindar, SmartFlyer COO and Managing Partner, has so much goodness to share with you.
In today’s edition, we’ll be covering:
A peek into the grand reopening, including what Erina loved about her stay at Splendido
Dish on the first permanent Dior Spa in Italy
Takeaways from a peek inside Villa Beatrice
What to do in Portofino, including where Martin Brudnizki told us to pop by for a sunset cocktail or two
Portofino pairings: where to go before or after
How to get to Portofino
Earlier this month, I gathered with old and new friends from around the world in Portofino for a two-night affair hosted by Belmond’s CEO, Dan Ruff, and the legendary Martin Brudnizki, just ahead of Splendido’s official season opening. Over the course of the weekend, we wandered through the newly reimagined spaces, lingered over decadent meals, and soaked in live performances all set against the radiant backdrop of Portofino. In today’s edition of Stay Awhile, indulge me as I revisit the moments and exceptional design details at Splendido that I simply can’t stop thinking about.
After a morning of tennis (more on that later) and a picture-perfect Portofino afternoon aboard Splendido’s own Van Dutch, we christened the newly redesigned Baratta Sedici, the very bar Vogue declared as the space where Brudnizki “allowed himself to let loose a little.” From there, we made our way to the hotel’s celebrated terrace, where we gathered around an undulating table that stretched across La Terrazza, serenaded by Vladi Gatto, the musical heartbeat of Splendido’s evenings since the 1990s. We celebrated with local flavors thoughtfully sourced by chef Corrado Corti, from classic Ligurian seafood to expressive regional wines. The evening continued downstairs at Splendido Grill for an intimate after-party, where fellow guest—and surprise performer—Jeff Goldblum took to the piano and played well into the night.
Having spent time at other Brudnizki-designed hotels—The Surrey, Hôtel Barrière Fouquet’s New York, La Fantaisie, and Broadwick Soho, to name a few—I’m always struck by the remarkable reverence he brings to each project. He manages to infuse his signature style into every corner while honoring both the brand’s heritage and the spirit of the destination, all without ever compromising the soul of the hotel itself. The recent three-year restoration of Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, a grand-dame luxury hotel in Portofino, is no exception.
The San Giorgio Signature Suite especially stands out for its pared-back elegance. Carved marble, Palladiana flooring, intricate plasterwork, and hand-painted ceiling details come together to reflect Brudnizki’s refined approach. The sumptuous living room opens onto a furnished balcony with sweeping views of Portofino Bay and the San Giorgio church tower, while the wraparound terrace off the master bedroom invites long, sun-soaked afternoons on sculptural loungers poised above the Ligurian coast.
This considered design language extends into each of the hotel’s 64 rooms and suites and carries throughout the property, from the grand stairwell to the newly imagined Baratta Sedici.
Brudnizki’s vision is further enriched by the work of Italian artist Gio Bressana, whose hand-painted frescoes and surface treatments are woven throughout the hotel. From delicate ceiling motifs to custom-painted walls and furnishings, his artistry adds a layer of intimacy and narrative to the interiors. The soft blues, sun-washed ochres, and earthy terracotta palette feels drawn directly from the Portofino landscape, grounding the glamour of the redesign in a tangible sense of place.
Part of what makes Splendido so extraordinary is its storied past—one that lingers in every corridor and sun-drenched terrace. From Winston Churchill and Grace Kelly to Charlie Chaplin and Walt Disney, generations of icons have been drawn to its magic.
Admittedly, I’m always charmed by an outdoor tennis court. There’s something about the ritual; the rhythm of the ball, the sunlit air that feels grounding. In Portofino, we spent a morning chasing serves on Splendido’s iconic hillside court, framed by olive trees and those unmistakable Mediterranean turquoise waters. Whether rallying with friends or working one-on-one with one of the property’s in-house coaches, it felt like a dream. I especially loved the thoughtful touches: sun care products by Parma-based Comfort Zone, Splendido-branded caps, and Evian spritzes waiting court side, all thoughtfully arranged by the team.
The grand unveiling of the property also marked the debut of Italy’s first Dior Spa, tucked into a quiet corner of Belmond Splendido, with a private terrace overlooking water. This indoor-outdoor space offers a true luxury wellness retreat in the hills above Portofino, beautifully complementing the hotel's existing Dior Jardin des Rêves. I opted for the signature SplendidiDior treatment, a ritual inspired by the phases of the moon and designed to restore balance using semi-precious stones. Between the gem-infused massage, a Dior facial, and a crystal ritual, it was the perfect gentle reset from the jetlag and set the tone for the evening ahead.
One of the true standouts of my time in Portofino? A behind-the-scenes look at the soon-to-debut Villa Beatrice, Splendido’s extraordinary private estate set to open in July 2025 following a meticulous three-year restoration. Perched high above the water, this storied residence once hosted glittering soirées and now reemerges more enchanting than ever. With cinematic views, timeless Italian charm, and a sense of occasion woven into every detail, Villa Beatrice is the kind of place designed for gathering your inner circle to toast, celebrate, and revel in la dolce vita.
Set on 6,500 square feet of private parkland, the estate includes four suites in the main villa plus La Casetta, a standalone one-bedroom stone cottage. There’s a private pool tucked into the gardens, a bar perfect for hosting up to 30 guests, and a furnished tower terrace ideal for aperitifs at golden hour or stargazing late into the night.
Villa Beatrice comes with 24-hour butler and private chef service, plus chauffeur transfers between Portofino, Splendido, and Splendido Mare, in addition to access to Splendido’s Riva Rivale. Guests also have access to the Dior Spa Splendido, with the option to book treatments in the privacy of the villa. But, perhaps most importantly, the Gelateria San Giorgio is just a short 10-minute walk down into town for that cheeky after-dinner gelato stroll, as for my personal recommendation? Definitely get the straciatella!
Here, days unfold like a well-scripted film: morning hikes lead to mountaintop picnics, while lazy afternoons give way to golden-hour cruises and barefoot beach lounging. Whether you’re sipping local wine above the cliffs, having lunch harbour side at Vincenzo Dascanio or at ö Magazin next door (both favorites among those in the know), drifting along the coast on a Riva boat, or checking into the Dior Spa at Splendido, every experience feels dialed in to perfection. But for the days when you want to go beyond the hotel, we’ve rounded up a series of ways to pass the day in our Portofino Guide.
Milan: For fashion, design, and an easy train connection
Saint-Tropez: Combine coastal chic via yacht or private transfer from Nice
Florence: Pair with Tuscany for a cultural reset
Paris: The romance of the rail from Paris to Portofino on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
From New York (JKF & EWR), Chicago, Atlanta, and Boston, there are multiple direct flights year round to Milan Malpensa (MXP), or connection flight to Genoa (GOA). Upon landing, your SmartFlyer advisor can arrange a chauffeured car directly to Portofino. The drive from Milan Malpensa Airport takes about two and a half hours, or just 45 min from the Genoa Airport with the final stretch tracing the scenic Ligurian coastline.
If combining a yacht charter with a stay here, arriving via water to Portofino’s harbor is the kind of cinematic moment that sets the tone for a stay worth remembering, whether you're coming from Saint-Tropez, Monaco, or another Mediterranean hotspot.
Interested in exploring Portofino?
Your SmartFlyer advisor can help! Reach out today to get started planning.